Koi Food: Pellet Diversity & Fresh Fish Food (Part 2)

Welcome back! We last left off discussing how a fish is made up biologically and what nutrition they need to stay healthy. Next, we go more in-depth with food pellets and why you should buy fresh, dry fish food.
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Pellet Diversity

Food pellets come in a variety of packages, sizes, and contain different ingredients. Well, which variety and brand is right for your specific "koi"? Is it really the right food, or just hype with pretty packaging? With so many types of pellets to choose from, a few guidelines can help you pick the right food for your "koi".

Pond owners don't agree on the percentage of protein content that is best for their specific fish. But, the one thing every serious pond owner does agree on is reading labels and buying fresh food. It's very important you do this, so you know what you are getting.

Federal regulations set standards for what can be used in animal feeds. If a package of feed is labeled as koi food, goldfish food or koi and goldfish food, it has to be a complete diet, and federal standards must be met.

But, even with this in mind, all pellets are diverse. Some foods are processed better and contain fewer fillers (chemicals, additives not necessary for nutrition). Make sure to read the ingredient label on any fish food you buy.

Even though food labels break down ingredients by a percentage of proteins, the types of proteins in fish food is very important. A balance of amino acids produces the necessary muscle growth fish need. The wrong combination of amino acids produces excess waste and high ammonia levels in ponds.

Even though packages don't usually show their amino acid composition, koi owners should look for two essential amino acids: methionine & cystine. Also look for Alaskan pollack, which is considered the highest-quality fish meal protein out there. Oily herring is another important protein, and considered the second-best fish meal protein out there. Herring, anchovy and menhaden fish food all contain a higher percentage of protein than white fish food because they come from whole fish. Herring fish food has 72% protein, the highest of all four.

Pond owners must also choose from foods that sink or float. Yes, even that is a factor in how you choose your fish food. There are pros to both. Sinking food is good because it naturally goes to the bottom-feeding fish. Floating food allows you to see your koi's state of health (you can look for ulcers and scale damage on their surface - just as long as you keep your pond clean! Refer to previous posts for more information on that).

Also, keep in mind that the price you pay for food, does not define how quality of a food it is. Rating the ingredients between fish foods is the best way of choosing the best quality food at the best money value. One ingredient to avoid in any fish food is corn. Corn might be good for humans, and is used in many animal feeds (chickens), but it's too high in starch and provides almost no nutritional value for fish. So, try to avoid corn unless you are raising chickens.

The purpose for buying fish food is also a factor. The reason for buying fish food (despite keeping your fish alive of course) is something to keep in mind when purchasing. There is food for maintaining your fish's current health, food for quicker growth, food for bulking up fish, or food for adding more color to the fish's skin. So, make sure you know "what" you are buying the food for specifically.

Buying Fresh, Dry Food

After you found the right fish food for your particular fish (whether it be koi or goldfish or whatever fish you have in your pond), making sure the food is kept fresh is your next step in proper fish nutrition. Try to keep your food supply around a 3 month cycle. Every 3 months, you buy the amount of fish food you need to last those 3 months.

Finding a distributor who does a lot of business, is a guarantee that the food they have isn't old , and close to expiration. Also, find out if your dealer stores their fish food in a refrigerated area. This will keep fish food fresh, for longer periods of time. If not, as long as the food is fresh, you are in the clear.

It's rare for fish food being sold to be expired, but check anyway (remember, it's your money). Try to go for vacuum-sealed packages and heat-processed foods. These packages will have food that degrades slower, and they usually contain the best vitamin and mineral values.

All pond owners should keep food in a cool, dry place. They should have their food placed in airtight containers, because fatty acids in food pellets can go bad if exposed to air.
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Our next blog will continue this multi-blog series, with information on how your filter can be an influence on food load. We will also discuss feeding procedures to follow during different seasons. Until next time.....

Koi Food: Proper Nutrition & The Biology Behind It (Part 1)

The above picture is a picture of your typical "koi" fish. I used this picture as an example, being that a beginning hobbyist might not know what a koi looks like. I'll have more pictures of the fish I am using for this multipart blog. I could discuss history, anatomy, or how to raise a prize koi. But, I am sure you are just a home owner, who wants to keep things simple.

So, what is one thing you need to know about "koi"? Well, you need to know how to feed them. You think something like that would be very simple. But, it's a broad subject that needs to be thought out. Or else, you might have to do trial and error and find what helps your fish and what doesn't. To be honest, I would prefer you know "koi" fish food basics.

Biology of a "Fish"

All pond owners who have "koi" should know some basics about fish biology. Well, consider this "Fish Biology 101". If you know how the fish digestive system works and the nutritional needs of fish, you'll know what fish food is good for the fish and what is just a marketing ploy.

When a koi eats a pellet (the way fish food is produced, pretty self-explanatory), the food is first met by the fish's pharyngeal teeth (the fish's teeth, which is attached to the jaw). The teeth crush the food, and pass it from the esophagus right to the intestines. Koi fish don't have stomachs, unlike humans and many mammals. The intestines of a koi fish are four to fives times the length of the fish, and handle most of the food digestion.

Since koi are cold-blooded fish, their body temperature reflects their environment. When winter comes, all of the koi's body processes (circulation, digestion, and growth) slow down greatly. Keep this in mind when feeding koi fish in the winter.

Proper Fish Nutrition

In the wild, a koi fish eats plants, seeds, insects, and eggs. In a nutshell, whatever it can find that's beneficial, it eats. Well, unfortunately, your pond isn't comparable to the wild when it comes to nature's food. When keeping your homemade pond in tip-top shape, you have the challenge of finding fish food and supplements to replace all of these natural foods.

See what I mean? Wasn't as easy as you thought.

Well, thanks to science, humans have discovered what a koi needs to survive. In nutrition terms, kois need 10 essential amino acids (this makes up 25% to 50% of their diet). Fats should make up 12% of their diet. It's prefered to use unsaturated fats, because saturated fats (sucrose, lactose, starch, etc) are hard for koi fish to digest. Even though koi can naturally produce most of the fatty acids that they need, linolenic acids (they sell this as a supplement online, or in pet stores) that are necessary for growth, need to be provided in food (or in this case, pill) form.

20% of the koi diet should consists of carbohydrates. Even though this is a primary source of energy, too many carbs can cause fatal levels of blood sugar in koi fish. You can find carbohydrates in pellet form or in koi fish food. But, make sure you check the nutritional facts first on whatever food you see for koi.

As for fiber, it has been found not to be essential to most pond fish. But, many koi specialists say "wheat germ" supplements are great for koi fish in the winter. This is an added tip to keep in mind. Who knows? Maybe you'll build that prize fish without even realizing it.

Next time, we'll go more in-depth with food pellets, and what type of fish food to get from the pet store. I'll have the blog up within a few days, so if you are deciding to get koi or have koi...be patient. This information should be considered a stepping stone. It helps to do research and ask other experts in the koi field what type of koi fish food to get. But, consider this for your blue print.

Water Plant FAQ For Beginning Pond Enthusiasts

Question #1: I have put some water plants in my pond, but when am I supposed to fertilize them? What can I use to fertilize them? Help!

Answer #1: Your water plants should get their first dose of fertilizer in the spring. The exact time to start fertilization would be when your water plants start to sprout. A majority of water plants do well with consistent monthly feeding, with biweekly fertilizing in July and August (around the same time you are tanning in the sun). Stop Fertilization a month before winter in your area.

You can use any general plant fertilizer for water plants. The only problem you should be concerned about is how to get the fertilizer to the plant without turning your pond green. Algae feeds on fertilizer. How can you combat against this problem?

Easy!

Just use a fertilizer in tablet form. Be sure to push it into the soil and cover up whatever hole you create with more soil. This will prevent the fertilizer from dissolving and releasing its nutrients back into your pond.
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Question #2: What is the best waterlily to grow in a container pond? I need to know!

Answer #2: A container pond is small, only taking up about 3 or 4 feet of space. It also gets warm in the summer. So, to have waterlillies that will function properly in this type of pond, you need ones that will stay compact and can tolerate warmer water.

Miniature waterlilies are the most suitable candidate for these types of ponds. These waterlilies are very small, only being a few inches wide. Miniature waterlilies include 'Laydekeri Rosea', 'Joanne Pring', 'Helvola' and others.

Small hardies can grow real nicely in container ponds. These flowers can range from 4 to 5 inches in width. Hardies include 'Walter Pagels', 'Perry's Baby Red', 'Little Sue' and others.

Tropical lilies like 'Dauben' are great for container ponds as well.
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Question #3: Is it really necessary to have water plants in my pond?

Answer #3: The answer depends on what you want to get out of your pond. If it's a large fountain that is used for giving the birds a bath or splashing water, forget about water plants entirely. If you have a large koi pond, water plants might distract viewers from seeing your beautiful and expensive fish. If you want a pond that imitates ponds found in nature, water plants are a must.

Water plants add color to a pond. They also provide shade, keeping the pond cool in the summer and protect the fish you have in your pond (even the expensive prize koi). They also help reduce the amount of algae that can grow in your pond.

Some plants filter the water, such as water parsley. Certain grasses and sedges are good for fighting against pond algae (remember an earlier blog mentioning how plants can battle algae), like umbrella grass, cattails, soft rushes and others.
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Look out for more Water Plant FAQs in the future. Until next time....

The Fight against Pond Algae (Part 2: The Solution) - Aeration & Testing The Waters

Welcome back, it's been some time. This is the last part of our "Fight against Pond Algae" series. It's been a long road, with a lot of information, but our journey comes to a close with two final ways to kill pond scum.

AERATION

Since algae needs oxygen to survive, as well as fish, the fight for oxygen can give your fish more of a struggle surviving (aside from grabbing their fish food before the other fish does). But, increasing oxygen through aeration can give your fish that oxygen supply it needs.

Aeration allows the water to move continuously, which disrupts algae growth and dead spots that refuse to go through your filtration system. Also, when oxygen levels are down, your filtration goes down. Air pumps, water movement (like water falls), and diffusers (air domes) help give your pond optimum oxidization.

Another helpful way to increase oxygen levels is to replace 10% of your entire water supply in the pond on a weekly basis. This will get rid of pond bacteria and fish pheromones (which will reduce the growth of your koi - ouch!). The more pond bacteria and pheromones your fish are exposed to, the more likely they'll get sick. And they can't get well when they are sick and surrounded by pond waste. Imagine you get sick and instead of being brought to a hospital, you are left in an alley way that's filled with garbage and rats. Take these tips into consideration, and everyone will be calling you "Fish Doctor".

Testing The Waters

Our last part is one of the most important things to consider, and without doing this you are making your pond build up into that dirty alleyway I just mentioned. That is to test, test and test!! Test the water in your pond!

Your pond needs balance to be healthy. When a pond is out of balance, it helps pond algae grow and kills fish. Many pond enthusiasts test their water regularly (once a week at least) for nitrate, oxygen and pH levels. You should also test your pond temperature. Results of these tests can give you warnings of filter problems, overfeeding, or high ammonia (from fish waste - result of overfeeding).

You can also use herbicides and algaecides as a way of stabilizing your pond. But, you should know how these chemicals work and what effects they will have on your fish. Check out forums and fish community boards for information on what herbicides and algaecides are good to use. Also, do a google search and research products before buying them. Ask questions to the vendors, because the use of these chemicals does require some knowledge beforehand. Trial and error can cost you hundreds that could have been saved with a few minutes of reading.

Well, I hope this long guide has helped. If you follow these tips, you will eventually have a pond that never gets dirty and pond algae becomes a distant memory.

The Fight against Pond Algae (Part 2: The Solution) - Fish N' Plants

We left off our last blog discussing ways to get rid of pond algae. I mentioned two ways to get rid of pond algae, that you probably already have in your pond or should have. What could those two things be? This should be easy to guess (hint: It's in the title). Give up?

The answer: Fish & Plants

Now, you might be thinking, "Doesn't pond algae make fish sick and kill them?"

Yes, if pond algae builds up and isn't taken care of, it will kill your fish eventually. But, the formula works two ways. Fish can eat up algae. The best type of fish to get the job done would be koi fish. Having one or two of these bad boys can do your pond some good, just as long as they play nice with the other fish. Make sure you don't have fish too small with your bigger kois, or your koi fish might perform a disappearing act on your small fry.

The stocking rate for fish should be 250 gallons per fish. This can depend on the size of the fish. Our pond has a koi and two catfish, along with other cold water fish (maybe 10 altogether) and it's only 500 gallons. So, this figure can be broken and some people might break it to give their fish a fighting chance against algae. Ether that, or they just like to have a lot of fish in their pond despite the size. For bigger ponds, you might see a couple dozen koi in one pond. Algae will dare not infect your pond when your numbers are that high.

Another quick tip: Watch how you feed your fish. Overfeeding can be an issue when it comes to pond algae. The waste a fish produces from the food you feed it helps to fertilize pond algae. But, high quality fish food produces less fish waste. So, if you are looking to save a few dollars by getting cheap fish food, think again. If you buy a puppy, you want it to grow up good, so you buy it good dog food. Whatever will best accustom to your fish is the safest way to go. If you are a little short on cash, but a small supply of lower quality fish food, until you can afford the good stuff. Or, get the second best type of fish food.

We also brought in plants as a factor in eliminating pond algae. Plants can shade a pond to take up the space pond algae uses in order to grow. They can also provide shade for the fish. the only drawback with plants is that they produce oxygen during the day, but consume oxygen from your pond at night. The one positive thing about plants is that they balance nitrate levels.

Another small drawback is your plant will decay and drop leaves into your pond, which will put more workload on your pond filter. One thing to keep in mind with filtration is that it can't be overloaded with decayed plant matter or it will crash and burn on you down the road. If you design your pond well, plants can be a great help. But, plants shouldn't be put into a pond just for show. Do some research and decide what plants and how many you want in your pond. It could be your saving grace, or your worst enemy.

The last blog in this pond algae topic will cover the last two factors in fight against pond algae. Find out what they are by checking back soon.

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The Fight Against Pond Algae (Part 2: The Solution) - Filtration101

Welcome back and sorry for the wait. We last discussed Pond Algae, and why it's a problem as far as ponds go. Well, how do you go about getting rid of this pond scum?

You can ask yourself one thing for starters:

"How is my pond filtration system?"

Can you consider your pond filter great, the best, decent, okay? If you don't know how good or bad your pond filter is, or don't have a pond filter (I highly doubt this), then you might have found one of the culprits to your green pond problem.

Filtration is a key element in keeping a pond clean. The quality of the filter will reflect the water quality of your pond.

Keep in mind two things with your pond filter:
A. The Filter Size
B. Turnover Rate

Now, to figure out the size filter you need for your pond, you have to do some calculations. You can calculate by pond volume, or surface area.
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To calculate total pond value, you must find the area and then multiply the area by 7.5 to get the gallons. This can be tricky because of different pond shapes.

Rectangle/square: length x width x depth x 7.5

Oval: Measure from center to most farthest edge, then center to the closest edge. Multiply the two values together, and then multiply the total by 3.14 (pie). Once you get the area, multiply that by 7.5

Circle: Measure the radius (length in feet from center of edge), and then multiply the radius by itself, and then by 3.14. Multiply the result by 7.5

Abstract, Oddball Shapes, and Oblong: Break abstract and irregular shapes into simpler units, and then calculate the area of each and multiply the total by 7.5. Or, multiply the maximum length by the maximum width, and multiply it by 7.5.

*For oblong, break the pond into a square and two half circles. Calculate the area of the square, and then make the two half circles one and find its area. Add the two results together, and times it by 7.5.

You can also figure out the surface area of a pond, use the same formulas to find the area of the pond. Since it is recommended to get a filter 1/3 the size of the total surface area, divide your areas by 9. So, for example, a rectangle formula would be:

length x width ÷ 9
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Now, we have turnover rate. But, what is turnover rate? Well, turnover rate is the rate at which your total pond volume is circulated through your pond filter system. If you have a bio filter, this is very important.....

"A who-sa what filter?"

If you scratching your head at the type of pond filters that are out that, then here is a small breakdown.

1. Bio-pond filters (uses bacteria to breakdown waste)
2. Mechanical pond filters (uses filtering mechanism to trap particles for later disposal)
3. Pressurized pond filters (force going into filter and out of filter are equal)

Some filtration systems combine both bio and mechanical elements to make a "super filter". Check your nearest pond dealer, or online store to see what is out there.

Our next blog continues the fight against dreaded pond algae. There are other ways to keep the pond clean. Some of these pond algae killers are ones you might already have in your pond and not even know it. What are they? Tune in next time to find out.

The Fight against Pond Algae (Part 1: The Problem)

There are over 5,500 species of green algae that can manifest itself in fresh pond water (well, water in general that is subjected to the outdoors). Spring and summer time is the worst season for green algae, because it gives algae everything it needs to harvest at a fast rate.

Why is that? Well, because a plant needs three basic ingredients to grow: sunlight, nutrients, and oxygen. During spring and summer, it gets all of these to its roots desire. Algae can come in single-celled or multi-celled forms. Single-celled algae (phytoplankton) is 15 microns. Multi-celled Algae can grow up to 5 feet and form blanket weed. Blanket weed can grow up to a foot a day under nice sunny conditions.

Some of your experienced pond contractors will refer to this spring time problem as "New Pond Syndrome". What this means is that when spring comes and your pond is up and running (with filtration working), you will get green water. In the winter, a lot of people will shut off their filters because of the weather conditions. When spring comes, the filters are running full speed. But, since the winter produces fish waste and pond scum, the pond filter has to play catch-up.

The problem with algae is that it produces oxygen during the daytime, but feeds on oxygen at night. So, when night time comes, your fish are losing their oxygen supply. Also, the fact that a pond looks disgusting with green water (see picture above), and you can't see the fish!

There are solutions to the problem. Keeping a pond's water balanced and free of unwanted algae takes a lot of work, but the end result is a clean and beautiful looking pond. If you came this far to put in a pond, get fish, and put in a fultration system, pond maintenance should be your last (and longest lasting) priority. Our next blog will discuss solutions to the green pond monster.

Garden Islands: Great Home for Plants and Ponds

A Garden Island is a good way to define an area in your yard. Let’s say you have an undeveloped area in your yard and want to create a garden island there, you simply put markers three or four feet away from the adjacent planting in that area. Now, you use a hose to make a design pattern. The design should be free handed and look pleasing to the eye, keep it free flowing. Use the other plantings that border the garden island you’re creating, to give you a lay-out pattern.

Your design will flow parallel and evenly spaced to the adjacent plantings in that area. If your yard is undeveloped, a good place to start is the center of the yard. Now create a pattern you like and a size you can handle. Later you can create other garden islands off the first one and keep on going, forming a puzzle or paisley effect, creating walkways between all the garden islands. Later you can view pictures of Garden Islands, on my web site, but for now let’s talk about construction.

Garden Island construction: you want to define your garden island with a bordering material. There are many items you can choose from, such as rocks, boulders, edging materials, bricks, patio blocks, pavers, cut railroad ties, cut landscape ties, and my favorite, retaining wall blocks (RWB). We will use RWB for our project. RWB can be stacked, shaped, graded or just follow the lay of the land, easily creating the desired look you want. We will do a free form, two blocks high following the lay of the land. Pick your location; use your garden hose to create the design you want.

If there is grass, remove all the grass in your design and rake the area smooth. This will give you a good base to start laying your RWB. Now start laying down blocks next to each other, keeping all the blocks at the same height, nice and smooth. When the first row is finished, start your second row. The last block of the second row will have to be cut, because as you add rows, the perimeter will get smaller (a cone effect). Simply measure what size block you need to fill the gap, and score it with a stone chisel by hammering the block, creating a groove around the block until it separates. Now insert the cut block, and then check your perimeter for eye appeal, making sure all the blocks are the same height, nice and smooth. We are now ready to add soil and amendments to you raised Garden Island.

Adding Amendments: The soil, whether a clay or sandy loam, should have peat moss, bone meal and a good plant fertilizer, such as Planttone added. The amount varies on the condition of the soil. The best solution is to read the manufacturers directions. Now we are ready to plant.

Plantings: A good rule of thumb is to plant in groups of three. I would take one deciduous three like a Japanese maple, and two different types of juniper topiaries. This should be the base of your island. The rest of the plantings can be ground cover, perennials and annuals for color. Now let’s address accessories.

Accessories: There are many accessories to choose from and that is up to the individual’s taste. It could be a bird bath or Large to medium size rocks placed strategically in the landscape, maybe a statue or ornament, like a gazing ball. The choices are endless and fun, it’s like the cherry on the Sunday. Next time we will talk about water features in the Garden Islands.

The Fish Factor: Goldfish

A pond is not complete without fish to occupy it. Whether it's a pond built by man or Mother Nature, most ponds contain fish. Choosing what kind of fish you put in your pond depends on how much you want to spend, the size of the pond, and your personal preferences. Let's look at pricing first. Pricing can range from a few dollars to thousands of dollars, and that can be for just one fish! Let's have a small breakdown on the type of fish you can get for your pond.

There are many types of fish you can put in a pond. Let's first start with goldfish. Goldfish are considered fresh water fish, which means you don't need salt in your pond for them to survive. Now, there are several types of goldfish, with prices that might range. Let's look at a few different types of goldfish:

Comets

You have large red and white comets, which might cost around $10.00. They are around 4" in size. There are also Shubunkin Pond Comets, which can cost around $10.00 and range from 3.5" to 4". Comets are the least expensive fish for ponds, and won't damage your plants. They grow about double their original size (around 6" to 8"). They can be mixed with your koi fish, but there are other fish you can put in their as well. We have catfish and koi in our pond.

Fantails

Fantails are the least aggressive of pond fish, and are considered delicate. This is a good pond fish for beginners, being that they can survive in extremely cold climates. These fish can cost around a few bucks, since they are smaller in size compared to comets. These fish are around 2.5" to 3", and grow no longer than 6".

Black Moors

Black moors, like fantails, are considered pond fish for beginners because of their survival in extremely cold climates. This makes it safe to keep them in an outdoor pond.
Prices can range from $10.00 to $20.00 depending on the size you buy it at. They range from 2" to 4". They won't grow more than 4" though.

Orandas

These fish are very delicate and have a hood that can be subjected to infection from bacteria or fungi that settles within. They are not recommended for beginners, and pricing can range from $5.00 (1.5" to 3"), to $30.00 (4" to 6").

If you have a small sized pond, between 30 to 150 gallons, then goldfish are a safe way to go. If you have a medium (150 to 500 gallons) or large pond (500 to 1,000+ gallons), you might prefer going with koi fish. We'll cover that soon. Our next blog will discuss garden islands. A garden island can do wonders for appearance with your pond. We'll get more in-depth with it next time.

What a pond wants, what a pond needs!

Ponds require a lot of maintenance, and some knowledge. What do you need to maintain your pond? Well, here is a list of things required for keeping your pond clean, clear, and your fish alive:

1. Pond Test Kits - The water in your pond is an essential factor in how your fish will live. If you neglect your duties at pond sanitation, your fish will pay the price. Pond test kits test ph(measuring the acidity of a solution), salt, dissolved oxygen, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. In the beginning, you might have to check these levels frequently (at least once a month). Over time you might not need to do it monthly, but it's still a good habit to do pond water testing.

2. Quarantine Tank - There are arguments on whether this is necessary. Well, if you sent a diseased fish (even if it's an expensive diseased fish) into a small environment with other fish, wouldn't they get sick? I'm sure they would. One diseased fish can wipe out your entire pond population.

3. Filter- A good, high-quality filter goes a long way in keeping water free of harmful chemicals (Nitrite, Nitrate, Ammonia), and gets the green out of your water. You might also need to consider other products to get rid of harmful chemicals, sludge, and algee that will surface in your pond.

4. UV lights - There are many great uv lighting systems for ponds out now. Do a google search (example: Pond UV Lights), and you'll find some good systems. What UV lights do is clump green algae together, so they are large enough to be picked up by filters. This is a great thing to have in any pond, and will help keep your water clean.

5. Aeration - This can be in the form of a waterfall or fountain. Some companies use windmills and more complex systems for bigger ponds. Fish need oxygen, and this will help keep the pond from freezing during the winter time.

6. Skimmer - This cleans out debris (leaves, twigs, etc) that might enter the pond (especially if you live in the country side, where trees are plentiful).

7. Net - This will protect the pond from falling leaves and twigs, but will give predators (raccoons, cats) a run for their money and protect your fish. There are other technologies that help protect fish from predators and winter season. Do some research on new pond and garden technologies.

8. High-Quality Food - Pretty self-explanatory, but make sure the food is specialized for your type of fish (goldfish, koi).

9. Research - Confused about how to install this liner? Can't figure out how to put so & so's filter together? Do some research. There are many internet and companies who specialize in every type of product available for ponds, so do some research and ask.

I hope this has helped. Expect more blogs on various topics concerning fish, gardening, and ponds. Maybe even a frog article, until next time.